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For three years, I have been in China teaching Swing Dancing. Now I'm wandering yet again...

2004-12-31

Shanghai on 50 Quai a Day 

Wednesday (Yesterday)
Wake up.  Work on class organization. Go across street and buy meal at dodgey-but-decent Chinese restaurant.  They speak no English and have no English menu, so you have to order in Chinese (which I can do, finally).  Cost: 15 quai.
Taxi (10 quai) to screening for TV commercial.  They are doing a two-day infommercial shoot for an excercise machine, and they need some foreigners to do it.  (I ran into the producer for this the other night on my way home).  When I get to the studio office, there are 10 other foreigners there, 8 of which I know already from the White Countess movie.  I think fully one quarter of the Shanghai Expat social population worked on that movie.  I'm hungry so I get a meal across the street (28 quai).
Exit the screening (I think I got the job), and take a the subway home (2 quai).
That evening... NEW GIRL sends JIMBO  message on phone.  "Want to go to that new bar I told you about?"  JIMBO looks at wallet.  45 quai remaining.  JIMBO says, "Uh, OK".
Meet and take taxi (10 quai) to the new bar, enter.  More people are there from the movie, plus other contacts.  BAR CO-OWNER comes to JIMBO and says, "Beer is free tonight.  Enjoy the show!"  JIMBO is very relieved.  He looks to NEW GIRL and says, "Uh, do you like beer?"
The jazz at this place is awesome.  Shanghai is getting some really good jazz clubs.  Lots of musicians here playing and just in the crowd.  MUSIC MAN from movie comes up to JIMBO.  "Wow.  Hey, nice girl you have there," he says.  "Hey mate, hold onto that one."
Later on, JIMBO finds out that ribs are free, too.  Munch!  JIMBO and NEW GIRL exit bar, planning to go to a new party.  Total bar cost: Zero quai.
NEW GIRL realizes she's got to work tomorrow!  Quick exit in a taxi for her.  JIMBO walks home (again, zero quai).  Goes home and organizes music collection.
 
Thursday (Today)
Wake up.  It's snowing!  I've never seen snow like this in Shanghai before.  Go to meeting with BALLROOM DANCE TEACHER from the movie.  He's a cool guy.  We are looking at different dance studios and trying to decide where to rent one.  We go to a very nice hotel at a good location.  We encounter some resistance from the hotel staff about renting out their dance studio.  JIMBO looks around at the magazines laying around the reception area.  He sees the one he wants and opens it to page 26.  "This is me," JIMBO says, pointing to a picture of himself and DANCE PARTNER.  "Is this an old copy?" the FITNESS MANAGER says.  "No, it's this month's."  JIMBO and BALLROOM DANCE TEACHER exit hotel, with a little more credibility.  Hopefully we can rent this place because it's just perfect.
Both leave and take metro (2 quai).  Stop for dinner at another good cheap eats place (15 quai).  Leave and go to English school JIMBO used to work at.  Make deal with MARKETING WOMAN to hold swing dancing promotions at their school.
JIMBO exits and goes to his first-ever ballet class.  Meet CHINESE BALLET TEACHER who is just adorable.  Strictly professional relationship, but it always makes the class go more easily when it's taught by an attractive person.  This class is free (zero quai) in exchange for the CHINESE BALLET TEACHER to come to JIMBOs dance class at a time of her chosing.
Metro home (2 quai), cheap eats across the street (15 quai) plus a large bottle of Pepsi (5 quai).  JIMBO sends message to NEW GIRL, who is working late and then having dinner with her family, but will see him tomorrow.   So you're home for the evening, Mr. Jimbo!  Spend the rest of the night listening to you swing music, writing the swing dance newsletter for the upcoming month, and organizing the classes.  Overall, quite satisfying.
 
Friday: Tomorrow is New Years! 
 
-------------------------------
 
"quai" is slang for the local currency, Renminbi.  It's like saying "bucks" instead of dollars.
50 quai equals US$6.09
 

2004-12-27

Christmas in Shanghai 

My friend from the UK has gone back to the UK.  My current flatmate is from Australia, and he's been pretty agressively persuing a job since he got out here.  But he's now facing the do-or-die decision as well.  It can be a bit of a trick getting a job out here.  The basic fall-back position is teaching English.  My roommate is willing to do this until something better comes up.  I'm glad for this, because if he takes this type of job then he can at least stay in the country and I get to keep my apartment the way it is right now.  Moving is stressful, and even if I didn't move I'd have to get a new roommate to replace the old one.  I just don't want to have to deal with that right now.  I've finally found a housing situation which is acceptable and overall pretty good.  It'd be a step backwards to have to look for a new one.
 
The movie is wrapped up and I am now facing the project void.  I've got the once a week swing dance class, which is going well in some aspects.  But I've got to get more going on than this.  I ran into a person who is doing a TV commercial for an exercise machine.  I'm definitely going onto that one.  It pays pretty decently; enough in two days to cover most of rent.  Plus I'm going to hook up any friends of mine I might be able to.
 
My birthday is coming up.  Right now we're between Christmas and New Years, but once that is over my birthday is right afterwards.  By coincidence, we are having a swing dance night at a popular bar on the very same night as my birthday.  So the I'm going to call it a "Birthday Party" for myself and invite all the swing dancing people and anyone from the movie.
 
I spent Christmas here not doing all that much.  Shanghai does get the full commercialization of Christmas.  They have Christmas trees and guys dressed up like Santa's.  I was walking home from dinner with my flatmate and we passed this rather skinny Asian guy outside a restaurant.  He was dressed like Santa.  He had the outfit on, but this guy's really skinny.  He has a white beard sort of hanging from his chin.  "That's the sorriest looking Santa I have ever seen," my flatmate said to me.
 
Also on the way home, we passed a church.  I have not been much of a church-going person since I came here.  I wasn't one before I came here, either, but there you go.  So it was Christmas eve, so I said, "How about if we stop in here really quick?"  So we did.  I walked in.  I think it was a Chinese language service, since there was not a single foreigner  there.  I stood around, looked a bit.  I said the Lord's Prayer to myself, and nodded to my flatmate and we took off.  I don't know if there's anything to it, but it never hurts to try to get a little good influence worked in there.
 
My next things are: get the Shanghai Swings website up and running.  Plan a 1930's party (which has a lot of verbal support but a whole lot of logistical challenges), and come up with ways to earn the cost of living this month!
 
Peace,
-J

2004-12-20

Teaching, Learning, and Being John Malcovich (or Ralph Fiennes) 

Wednesday: The last day of filming.  I go onto set, make last minute connections with anyone I've run into, while all the time being extremely conscious of not becoming at all annoying.
They are striking the set.  All of the material will be torn down and thrown away, so I and a group of others take souveniers (with permission from the higher-ups).  I got a large oil painting (rather art-deco) and three full length mirrors.  We shuttle the stuff off in a rented taxi van and I receive my part at my house that evening.
Rest for two hours.
Some of the folks in the movie crew and cast are meeting at a bar.  I get my energy back and head out there.  The three assistant directors are present, plus people from makeup, wardrobe, the language coach, and so on.  Also present is one of the actors, who plays the Japanese character Matsudo.  His real name eludes me at the moment, but he's the same actor who played in the movie The Last Samaurai.  He played the samaurai in the village who wanted to kill Cruise's character during most of the movie.  Anyhow, this guy is really very cool, very friendly, and says hello to everyone.  He's at the bar.
I wander about, realizing this is probably the last time to see most of these folks (for now).  One of the makeup ladies says to me: "You name came up at dinner tonight."  (This is the dinner with the Director, probably all the actors, and so forth).  "The director brought up your name.  He said, and I quote, "And how about this Jimbo?  How's a person go from being a dancing extra to being in a ballet-type piece run by one of the most respected choreographers in the world?  What's more, it was she who requested him!  'I've got to have him,' she said."  The makeup woman finished her statement: "End quote!"
How indeed?
 
Thursday, the next day:
7pm: Go to Zapatas for a swing dance night.  This is the free bi-weekly night we have.  I do it for free, for the publicity. And it's working, too.  Not so many people this time but nontheless a prositive night.  The problem is, I have to leave.  I'm triple-booked tonight...
10:30pm: My German dance partner Andrea shows up, fresh from a five-hour train ride.  We head out to Manhattan, and new bar opening.  We are going to perform there.
11:30pm: Performance at Manhattan.  We end up doing three numbers.  The first is really fast.  We didn't expect the band to choose one quite so fast, but the crowd loves it.  The second one is quite slow.  I'm low on energy and inspriation, but we work through it.  It goes over OK, but all of the photographers there for the evening get a lot of pictures because we are moving slow enough for them to see!  Third song, and it's all over.  The organizers, and the bar owners, and a lot of members in the crowd are very happy by it.  I was I guess you would say 'satisfied', but not really thrilled.  Mainly it's just too hard to work two shows back-to-back.  I have a drink with the bar manager, but I tell him I have to be going...
12:30pm: Go to 5 on the Bund for the 'extras' party for the White Countess.  All of the extras who worked through the whole movie have been invited to go to this party.  I'm still wearing a zoot suit, which I have been wearing all evening since the first performance.  I walk through and I see a lot of folks I know.  I say hello to everyone.  I stop and chat with a few folks in particular.  Also present here is the Japanese actor and the 2nd Assistant Director, Elliot (who is also a very cool guy).
About a half hour into it, a reletively short, dark-haired guy comes up to me.  "Hello," he says, "It is a pleasure to meet you."  The words come out with a hint of awe. 
"Nice to meet you, too." I say.  It's not unusual that someone would recognize me who had been on the set, but still it seems a bit odd.
The guy turns and quietly says to his friend, "Do you know who this is?  This is Ralph Fiennes."
I stop and chuckle a bit.  This day I am in my suit, plus my hair is combed back with a touch of gel.  It's the same style Ralph uses, and come to think of it we are just about the same height and build.  Plus we both have a prominent brow and nose, with a small chin.
"No," I say with a bit of a laugh.  "I'm Jimbo.  I did the dancing on the movie."
With the same quiet, deep respect, the guy says, "Man, what an actor.  Ralph, it is an honor to meet you."
I see I'm not talking my way out of this.
"Actually, it's pronounced RAIPH."
"Oh, yes.  I'm sorry Mr. Fiennes.  Raiph.  Can I get a picture?"
"Sure."
 
FRIDAY
9pm: My friend Phil's last night out.  He's going back to England, the little *&*(.  I and another friend meet him for a few drinks.  What are we going to do on this night?  We're not going to Windows, that's decided up front. 
10:30pm, Windows: So we're here again.  Well, the drinks are 10rmb ($1.25)  Its the same old thing.  Not so bad once you are here.  Go walking about, flirting with the girls and doing some dancing.  I'm not feeling too much on the prowl tonight.
2am: Our other friend cuts out since he has to work.  It's just Phil and I, so I say lets get out of this place.  We go to a quiet bar where we can have some drinks and talk a bit.  No sense in spending out last hours in each other's presence shouting over the loud music. 
Over on conversation we talk about each other and what's been going on for the last year.  Phil and I met on a subway completely randomly.  It was in the first three months we were both in Shanghai, and during that time you will make friends with anyone who speaks the language.  Phil and I are rather different characters, but I'd say and I think he'd say that we are best friends of those we know in this city.
As a friend, I have to tell him I'm a bit dissapointed that he didn't do more things to stay here.  Granted, it can be hard to get a job, and I respect his decision not to teach English.  But even so, he never spent any time talking to people who might benefit his career.  He never talked about work or expressed much of any initiative to get such work.
In order to understand Phil, you must know where he comes from.  He grew up in Manchester, England, which is not the best of towns.  Furthermore, he was in the Salford neighborhood, which is rough even for Manchester.  His mom raised both him and his sister all on her own, taking a job as a bus driver to do so and pretty much sacrificing whatever her own goals might have been to pull this off.
Phil saw a lot of his friends get involved with drugs, and he saw the downside of it.  At a relatively young age he decided to avoid them, altough being Irish he didn't avoid beer...  He was also the only person amoungst his friend group who went on to college after high school.  He went late, and paid for it himself, and got a degree in camera work.  That's the type of work he was hoping to get out in Shanghai, but it's hard if you don't speak Chinese.
Phil is a tall guy, has done some kickboxing, and you wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of him.  Of course you'd have to try pretty hard to get on his bad side.  He's pretty much a positive thinking person, even if to a fault.  "I'm a simpleton," he says.  "I'd like a simple life.  Some people might say to me, 'Would you be happy just having a regular no-brain job which paid enough to get by and you could get time off to have beers and spend time with your mates?'  Yeah, actually I really would be happy with that.  Really."
He often makes references that he's not as 'smart' as the rest of us.  But honestly I'd never have made that comment myself.  I think he might think we are more educated, or more cultured, having come from backgrounds in which we didn't suffer threat of major injury or beating eavery day whilst growing up.
There's a lot to say about Phil which will never make this blog, but perhaps he'll be worked in later under disguise of another character.  Man, I gotta tell U.
We drink beer, talk a bit, and see the sun come up, just like we had done months ago on several occasions.  A proper farewell to a friend I will never forget.
 
SATURDAY
Sleep until late.  I'm meeting a girl for dinner.  Met he originally on the set of the movie, before I was working as Assistant Choreographer (my official title for the credits now).  This is our second date.  She is a dang fine woman, I can tell U.
 
SUNDAY
Silver Moon Christmas Party.  I'm double-booked again today.  I have to be in two places at once again.  I have asked Kellian to handle this evening.  She invites her college kids and I teach some minimal stuff, but I have to leave 90 minutes after it starts, to...
Web School Christmas Party.  We've been training for about three weeks.  Four couples, including myself.  We went with black pants and white shirts for the guys, and the reverse for the girls.  One of the couples asked to join us in the last two practices, just one week before the show.  They were of course stuggling to get through the routine.  I asked them, "Do you want to be in the show?" They both say, "I don't know if we can do a good enough job..."  So I just say, "Yeah, but do you want to be in the show?"  "Uh, umm, uh.  Yes."
They did a fine job, too, with only two practices.  The performance was well received, with probably five hundred or so people in attendance.
After we are done, there is one more performance and the emcee comes on.  He's a black guy, an American, who used to play football I think.  I've seen him on TV out here. His Chinese is just flawless as far as I can tell.  He's joking around and managing the crowd.  He goes on to say, "Some of you Web students will come on to my TV show, or my radio show".  It's not often, especially lately, that I feel envy, but I do right now.  Man, if I could just speak Chinese.  What could I accomplish then?  If I could talk directly to these people, either as a group or as individually, what then could I accomplish?
The emcee finishes and the party begins.  But I haven't had dinner.  I'm not feeling like partying so much.  I should party because I need to meet some people, but I'm tired, so I go eat.  After dinner, I take the subway home, and I think I see a familiar face walking by.
"Jimbo?"  It's the girl from the show, the one who joined at the last moment.  "Hi how are you?"
She's with her mom, and they are both leaving from the party. 
"Nide tiao wu hen hao!" she says.  I know what this means: Your dance very good.
"My mom is a Chinese language teacher," she says.
Wow this is a stroke of luck.  I was just thinking after the show, if I only knew how to speak Chinese, think of what I could accomplish out here.  So I break out some of the little which I know.
"Wo jiao nide haizi wudao, ni jiao wo Zhong Guo Hua.  Keyi ma?"  I say.
"Hai keyi," she says. 
Then she asks me, "Ni shi nali ren?"
"Wo shi Mei Guo Ren."
"Mei Guo nali?"
"Jiu Jin San." I say.
"Jiu Jin Shan" she corrects me.
"Dui. Jiu Jin Shan.  Xie xie."
This is the right teacher for me.  I confirm with her daughter that she is serious about the dance-for-language training exchange.  She says yes, she is.
So that was Sunday.
 
I teach your child dance, you teach me Chinese language.
OK.
You are where people?
I am Beautiful Country (America) People .
Beautiful Country where?
San Framcisco.
San FRANcisco.
Right. San Francisco.  Thank you."

2004-12-11

And that's a Wrap for Mr. Jimbo 

Today is Saturday. On Thursday we filmed the last dance scene, which ended my planned involvement in the movie.  By the last day I'd developed an awful cold, and I spent Friday mostly resting and recovering.  But... some amazing things have developed in those four days.
 
On the first day, I personally did not dance.  Rather, I stayed behing the monitors and reviewed the film, alongside the director, assistant director, and a group of others who have responsibilities or curiousity in watching the film.  I arranged the dancers and gave them personal direction, and I coordinated with the cinematographer Chris Doyle (who did Hero) as to where the cameras were placed and how them moved about the scene.
 
On the second day I had brought out all of my best dancers, anticipating two of the most challenging dance scenes.  As it turned out, the shooting schedule was re-arranged at the last minunte, and we only were shooting a slow-dance scene.  I could have used anyone  for that.  I didn't need skilled dancers.  But there they were, so we went ahead with the scene.  It looked good, but it was not an efficient use of the talent and preparation that had gone into it.
 
On the third day, I experienced thee most surprising and eventful thing of the entire movie.  In the morning we had a dance scene, and in a sense it was getting almost routine.  I arranged the dancers, paired them up, asked them each to do their most favorite style, and so forth.  We shot a scene before lunch, then broke to eat.
 
During our lunchtime, the official choreographer for the film was shooting a small comedie-ballet piece with some people she had been rehearsing for the last two days.  But she still wanted to do another piece, based upon an idea that from the guy who selected the music for the film. This guy had been talking about a "Monkey Dance", or "Cat Dance" which was done by James Cagney in one of his old movies.  He'd been going on about it for a long time, and finally the choreographer had located a download of this movie and watched the scene.  It turned out to be only a ten-second piece, and the dancing was not at all impressive.  But nonetheless, she wanted to go ahead with the concept.
 
As it turned out, the Russian dancers who were there for the comedie-ballet scene had to leave one hour after lunch. They really couldn't stay.  So, she turned to me and said, I want you to shoot this scene.  (When was it going to happen?  This afternoon!  In about two hours!)  Of coruse I said Yes.  I'd met her before and had dinner with her the first night she showed up on the set a few weeks ago.
 
I was to play the Monkey, and for my partner, The Cat, she had chosen a most lovely girl. It was the ballet dancer from the previous piece.  She's Chinese, and she's the featured ballet dancer of the Beijing Ballet Company (or Beijing School, or something).  But in any event, I'd seen her rehease and she is the most graceful being I've even spotted in my life.  And furthermore, she is also quite beautiful. And so the choreographer says, you will be doing this scene with her.
 
So.... WHOOOO HOOOO!!  Hooo, hoo hOOOO!
 
Unfortunately, after describing the scene, she did not feel it was appropriate. She is, after all, a premier ballerina, and she's just done an elegant ballet scene.  To have her doing a relatively campy number dressed as a Cat was deemed all around to not be suitable.  I must say I was dissapointed, because I wanted to meet her and talk with her some more.  But that's not the issue right now.  Right now it's 1 hour and 45 minutes to do the scene.
 
The choreograhper picked another girl from the dancing population, a nice French girl who has done ballet before, and she's now going to be the Cat.  (The ironic thing is, this girl was not actually even supposed to be on set today!  She came with the other dancers to take the bus but she wasn't scheduled.)
 
So they tell me to go into the makeup room.  And's who's waiting in there?  It's Natasha, in the chair.  She's talking to another star in the chair next to her about the basic things of life, specifically the overweight charge they have for luggage when you fly into China.  I pretty much sit quietly in the couch, waiting my turn.  I want to participate in the conversation but I feel I might say something which would sound rather provincial, so I just sit and listen.  A few moments later Ralph Fiennes comes into the room and takes his seat at the makeup chair.  The makeup person does her bit, and the conversation continues.  "So how's this overcharge thing work?" Ralph asks, in a very proper English accent.  I can't believe I'm here, I think.
 
Then finally it's my turn.  I take the chair Ralph had been in, and the Cat takes the seat next to me.  The makeup women go over how they will take care of the makeup for this.  The girl is to be put into an elaborate white-based makeup which makes her looks like a member of the CATS musical.  And I'm going to be put into a Peking Opera monkey face paint.  I had "The Gibbon" variety.
 
Makeup begins.  It starts on the eyes.  I hate that part.  They take this eye-liner type pencil thing and run it under the rim of your eye.  I've done it once before for an ameteur musical piece back in college. My eyes always involuntarily snap shut whenever they do that.  It just does not feel natural.  "You haven't done makeup before..." the makeup woman says, "... I can tell."
 
It's one hour and thirty minutes into it, and the facepaint has taken form.  It is outstanding.  The woman said she's never done such a facepaint on a foreigner before, and there were some changes she needed to do. I have much deeper eyesockets and a prominent browridge, and Chinese generally do not have this.  But in the end, it was a fantastic effect.  The pattern of the makeup must have been formed for good reasons over decades or longer.  When I put my eyes into a snarl, I look like a dangerous animal. When I move my mouth to either side it looks like my whole face is moving.
 
The director comes in. The day's shooting is being held up for longer than anticipated.  The sun is down already.  They have been waiting for us on the set, but there's no rushing this process.  The director takes out his camera and does a snapshot of me.
 
Finally we are ushered out and into wardrobe, which is a black leotard, leather cap, and tail.  Then, we go onto set.
 
The Cat and Monkey enter the set, which is an elaborate wooden building interior built into a soundstage.  Everyone of the extras is standing around the room, wearing their tuxedos, suits, evening gowns, and so forth.  The Cat and I walk into the clearing at the center of the room and take a bow.  The makeup on both of us is very impressive, and everyone applauds.
 
We go through a quick rehearsal.  The thing is, we rehearsed this just once or twice.  We go through it again, and just for fun and to keep in the mood, I run about on using my hands and such to simulate being a monkey.  "I like that!" the choreographer says.  "Do that for the last sequence instead of the 'walking in arms bit'."
 
So, with this much preparation and the entire crew and cast looking, we begin.  When shooting a scene, you first do one or two rehearsals.  You run through the scene, everyone does their bit, the music plays, and the director and choreographer and everyone goes through the motions and makes sure it all works.  We do two rehearsals, and inbetween I still keep in the 'monkey' character by bouncing around the set, poking the Cat, running away like a monkey, and so forth.  Everyone looks very amused by all this.  I'm loving it, I must admit.
 
We shoot the scene four times, from two different angles.  Each time I manage to remember and execute the routine just fine.  My experience dancing and my background of playing drums has been invaluable in this regard.  And it's not all that hard for me.  I just have to run around and pretend that I'm a monkey, and do some proper dance for a little bit.  The take a bow at the end and walk off stage.
 
I don't think it's all that much.  It's only about 15 seconds of screen time.  But I'm having fun and everyone seems to enjoy watching it.  And the makeup really makes the scene.  It would not have worked but for that.
 
So finally it's over after six takes or so.  The director actually comes up to me and says, "That was really good.  Really star material."  I'm just thinking, "I'm just a monkey!"
 
The day ends, and I keep the makeup on as I go home.  Everyone is coming up to me and nodding at me as I go by.  Even Ralph, who normally is very reserved and intense into the concentration of his character, gives me a smile.
 
Thursday is the last day. I've got a bad cold, and I just do the best I can.  Everyone has been there a long time, and we finish the last dance scene of the last day and all make a mad dash for the bus.
 
For some reason, the "Wrap Party" takes place on this night, even though the movie does not wrap for another week and a half.  I go home and rest, eat, shower, change.  I gather my strength and head out to the party.
 
It's held at the Paramount, the same place at which we had our Chirstmas Ball over one year ago.  Most everyone is there.  I see the director, crew, assitant directors, and so forth.  Then, finally Ralph and Natasha show up.  Everyone has their cameras out.  I have up to this point resisted asking for a picture with Ralph, because I am supposed to be on this set as a professional.  But now I think it's time to ask.   I'm hanging out with a friend of mine who works as a model out here. She asks for a picture with herself and Ralph, and of course he says yes.  So I ask if I can have one as well.  He says of course.
 
I go up to him and prepare for the picture, and he actually says to me, "It was a pleasure seeing your work."  I said, "Really?"
 
And so it goes.  The director and producer are sitting at a table across the room.  They are looking off in my direction.  I raise my glass to them, and they raise theirs to me. 
 
And that's a wrap for Mr. Jimbo.
 
-J

And that 

 

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